Valjevo

Valjevo welcomes you at the confluence of the Gradac and Kolubara rivers, with a view of the green slopes of the mountains and a silence that invites you to pause. In the heart of western Serbia, at the crossroads of old trade routes and surrounded by greenery and rivers, lies a town that breathes history and authentic beauty. Strolling through Tešnjar, you will feel the breath of generations past; and when you ascend to the viewpoint, the panoramic view will reveal Valjevo in its full splendour. Read on to discover why Valjevo is a memorable destination – from its history to its gastronomy.

Valjevo, situated some 90 kilometres southwest of Belgrade, is first mentioned in 1393 in Dubrovnik records. As a trading place at the crossroads between mountains and plain, the town for centuries served as a bridge between East and West.

During the First World War, Valjevo was a strategic site in the Battle of Kolubara – famous for the victory under the command of Vojvoda Živojin Mišić, born in the nearby village of Struganik. His wisdom, determination and military genius forever inscribed Valjevo on the map of European history. The town witnessed enormous sacrifice, yet was also a place where, amid the whirl of war, hope and national pride were born. During the Second World War Valjevo again became a scene of resistance, and on Vidrak hill still stands the monumental memorial by Vojin Bakić, dedicated to the fighters of the revolution – a symbol of suffering and freedom.

But Valjevo is not only a city of battles and victories; it is also a city of poetry, memory and tenderness. It is the hometown of Desanka Maksimović, the poet whose verses about love, youth and homeland shaped the spiritual landscape of the entire country. In the nearby Brankovina is her birth-house, today part of a museum exhibition and a place of quiet where visitors can feel the spirit of an era and the warmth of words that still resonate: “I seek forgiveness.”

And while the streets of Tešnjar preserve the breath of past times, the aroma of coffee from old cafés and conversations beneath wooden beams bring you back to the Valjevo you remember – dignified, warm and alive, a town where history and poetry intertwine in one breath.

Walking through Valjevo is like patiently opening old photographs and letters – every corner of the town holds a story. In the heart of the town, between the river Gradac and stone facades, lies Tešnjar – the 19th-century marketplace that preserves the spirit of that era. Its streets smell of bread and coffee, and behind wooden shutters hide artisan workshops and galleries where time flows more slowly. As you walk the cobblestones, you will hear greetings from locals and sense that old Balkan charm which once graced every small trading place.

In Tešnjar the rhythm of the town is born, but the true heart of Valjevo also beats in its symbols – in the Cathedral of the Resurrection of the Lord which, with its monumental size and the light of its domes, connects past and present. On Vidrak hill, above the town, stands the Monument to the fighters of the revolution – the work of Vojin Bakić which hovers between stone and sky, reminding us that freedom has always been the most precious word in these parts. Just a few kilometres further, the scent of incense will lead you to the monasteries of Ćelije, Lelić and Pustinja – sacred places where time keeps a different rhythm and where silence speaks more than words.

Valjevo is a town that does not experience nature merely as decoration, but as its most faithful companion. The river Gradac, among the cleanest in Serbia, winds like a pearly ribbon through the valley and sings its endless refrain. Its banks offer hidden shelters, ideal for rest, a walk or a peaceful moment by the sound of water and the chirping of birds. Through the canyon of the Gradac, where rocks quietly tell of centuries, a walk becomes meditation.

Above the town rise the mountains: Povlen, Maljen, Medvednik – green guardians of freedom. Their trails lead to viewpoints and springs, and just a few dozen kilometres further, Divčibare greets visitors with fresh air and landscapes where fog and sun play continuously. And there are also the hidden gems of this region – the Petnička cave, one of the most significant archaeological sites in Serbia, preserving traces of prehistoric man over seven thousand years old. And hidden in the forest, the Taor waterfall pours its cascades down moss-covered rocks, creating a scene that only nature can paint. In the surroundings of Valjevo, nature is not just space – it is the rhythm of life that teaches a person to return to themselves.

In Valjevo one sits at the table slowly, in conversation, with expectation. The dishes of this region are not catalogue gastronomy, but a reflection of the land’s soul: sarma and beans from earthen pots, lamb under the bell, proja, cheese from mountain villages, all prepared with care and respect for tradition. Alongside, a glass of homemade plum (or quince) brandy warms the palm and stirs the tale of the surroundings, in winter or summer. Everything smells of home – of wood crackling in the stove, of bread baked in a tile-oven, of time measured not by a clock, but by the guest’s satisfaction.

However, one gastronomic speciality holds a special place in the hearts of Valjevci – duvan čvarci. Unlike classic pork cracklings, duvan čvarci are the result of long and careful processing of fatty lard, while the fat is extracted and what remains is a fibrous, dry mass resembling finely shredded tobacco – hence its name. Traditionally it is a speciality of the Kolubara region, often tied to the Festival of Duvan Čvarci, an event which for decades has been the culinary symbol of Valjevo. The textures are crunchy, the taste mild, the aroma authentic – and although the festival has changed its venue, duvan čvarci remain at the heart of Valjevo’s gastronomic story.

Finally, Valjevo’s desserts bring seasonal fruit to life: pumpkin pie, cakes with walnuts and honey, sweet bites of quince and plum. Served alongside homemade brandy or wine, they complete the town’s culinary picture. Each bite returns one to simplicity, warmth and the feeling of being part of this place – because in Valjevo, food is the bridge between tourist and host, between tradition and the present.